How to Replace Bike Handlebars: Step-by-Step DIY

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Can you replace bike handlebars yourself? Absolutely! Replacing your bike handlebars is a rewarding DIY project that can improve your comfort and cycling experience. This guide will walk you through the entire process, from gathering your tools to riding off with your new setup.

How To Replace Bike Handlebars
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Why Swap Your Bike Handlebars?

There are many reasons to consider a bicycle handlebar swap. Perhaps your current handlebars are causing discomfort, leading to hand numbness or wrist pain. Maybe you’re looking for a different riding position, like a more upright stance for touring or a more aerodynamic one for racing. You might even want to upgrade to a lighter or stronger material. Whatever your motivation, fitting new bike handlebars can significantly enhance your ride.

Common Reasons for a Handlebar Swap:

  • Comfort: Alleviate hand, wrist, or shoulder pain.
  • Ergonomics: Achieve a more suitable riding posture.
  • Performance: Optimize for aerodynamics or control.
  • Aesthetics: Update the look of your bike.
  • Durability: Replace damaged or worn-out handlebars.
  • Specialty Riding: Adapt your bike for specific disciplines like gravel riding or commuting.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

Before you begin removing bike handlebars, gather all the necessary tools and materials. Having everything ready will make the process smoother and safer.

Essential Tools:

  • Hex Keys (Allen Wrenches): A good set of metric hex keys is crucial. You’ll likely need sizes like 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, and 6mm.
  • Torque Wrench: This is highly recommended for ensuring bolts are tightened to the correct specification, preventing damage to your components. A torque wrench for bike handlebars is a smart investment.
  • Screwdrivers: Both Phillips head and flathead screwdrivers might be needed for certain components.
  • Cable Cutters/Housing Cutters: Essential for neatly trimming brake and shifter cables and housing.
  • Grease: Bicycle-specific grease for threads and contact points.
  • Rag or Shop Towels: For cleaning parts.
  • Work Stand (Optional but helpful): Makes working on the bike much easier.
  • Gloves: To keep your hands clean and provide a better grip.
  • New Handlebars: Choose cycling handlebar types that suit your needs.

Materials:

  • New Handlebars: Ensure they are compatible with your stem and brake/shifter levers.
  • New Grips or Bar Tape: Depending on your handlebar type (flat bars or drop bars).
  • New Bar-End Plugs (if applicable): For flat handlebars.
  • New Lock-On Grip Collars (if using lock-on grips).

Preparing Your Bike for the Swap

Proper preparation is key to a successful bicycle handlebar swap.

Step 1: Secure Your Bike

  • If you have a work stand, secure your bike by its seatpost or frame.
  • If not, lean your bike against a stable surface or have a friend hold it steady. Ensure the front wheel is slightly turned to prevent it from rolling.

Step 2: Remove Accessories

  • Take off any accessories attached to your handlebars, such as lights, bike computers, bells, or bags.

Step 3: Position the Bike for Access

  • Rotate the handlebars so they are perpendicular to the frame. This will give you better access to the stem bolts.

Removing the Old Handlebars: Step-by-Step

This section details the process of removing bike handlebars.

Step 4: Loosen and Remove the Stem Bolts

  • Locate Stem Bolts: Most stems have bolts that attach the handlebars to the stem faceplate, and bolts that attach the stem to the steerer tube.
  • Faceplate Bolts: First, address the bolts on the front faceplate of the stem. These typically hold the handlebars in place. Loosen them evenly, a little at a time, in a cross pattern (like tightening lug nuts on a car wheel).
  • Steerer Tube Bolts (if applicable): If your stem is clamped around the steerer tube, you’ll need to loosen those bolts as well. Be careful not to completely remove them yet if you plan to reuse the stem.
  • Important Note: If you are also doing a bicycle stem replacement, you can loosen and remove the steerer tube bolts to take the stem off the fork. If you’re keeping the stem, you might only need to loosen the faceplate bolts enough to slide the old handlebars out.

Step 5: Remove the Handlebars

  • Handlebar Clamp Type: Different handlebar clamp types require slightly different approaches.
    • Quill Stems: These older style stems have a single bolt on top. Loosen this bolt significantly, then tap the top of the bolt gently with a rubber mallet or the heel of your hand. The stem should slide up and out of the steerer tube. You may need to rotate the handlebars to break them free.
    • Threadless Stems: These stems have a faceplate that clamps onto the handlebars and bolts that clamp onto the steerer tube. Once the faceplate bolts are loosened sufficiently, the handlebars should be able to slide out. If they are stuck, a gentle wiggle or tap might help.

Step 6: Carefully Remove Brake and Shifter Levers

  • Loosen Clamp Bolts: Your brake and shifter levers are mounted on the handlebars. Each lever will have a clamp that needs to be loosened.
  • Use the Right Hex Key: Use the appropriate size hex key to loosen these bolts.
  • Slide Levers Off: Once the clamp is loose enough, slide the levers off the handlebars. You might need to rotate them slightly.
  • Cable Management: Pay attention to how the cables are routed. You don’t want to accidentally pull them out of their levers or housing unless you are replacing them. Gently move them aside.

Step 7: Remove Grips or Bar Tape

  • Grips (Flat Bars):
    • Lock-on Grips: These have small clamp rings at the ends. Use a hex key to loosen the bolts on these clamps. The grips should then slide off.
    • Slip-on Grips: These can be trickier. Sometimes, a blast of compressed air under the grip edge can help it slide off. Alternatively, you can carefully use a thin, flathead screwdriver or a specialized grip removal tool to pry them off. Be gentle to avoid damaging the handlebars or the grip if you plan to reuse it.
  • Bar Tape (Drop Bars):
    • Unwrap Carefully: Bar tape is usually wrapped from the ends towards the stem. Carefully unwrap the old tape. You might find it’s secured with electrical tape or specialized finishing tape.
    • Lever Compatibility: The bar tape is often wrapped around the brake lever clamps. You might need to loosen or remove the brake levers to fully unwrap the tape.

Step 8: Detach Cables and Housing

  • Brake Cables: For rim brakes or older style disc brakes, you might need to disconnect the brake cable from the caliper or brake arm. For hydraulic brakes, you typically don’t need to disconnect the lines unless you are replacing the levers entirely.
  • Shifter Cables: Similarly, you may need to disconnect shifter cables from the derailleurs.
  • Housing: Once the cables are free, you can slide the housing off the cables. Keep track of the lengths and any ferrules (the small end pieces on the housing).

Fitting New Bike Handlebars: Step-by-Step

Now it’s time to install your new handlebars.

Step 9: Prepare the New Handlebars

  • Clean: Ensure the new handlebars are clean and free of any grease or debris, especially in the clamping area.
  • Apply Grease: Lightly grease the clamp diameter area of the new handlebars. This helps prevent seizing and makes future removal easier.

Step 10: Install New Grips or Bar Tape

  • Grips (Flat Bars):
    • Slip-on Grips: Apply a small amount of rubbing alcohol or grip glue to the inside of the grip and the handlebar end. Slide the grip on firmly and twist it into position. Allow it to dry if using glue.
    • Lock-on Grips: Slide the grip onto the handlebar, ensuring the clamp is in the desired position. Tighten the clamp bolts securely with a hex key, but don’t overtighten.
  • Bar Tape (Drop Bars):
    • Start Wrapping: Begin wrapping the tape from the end of the handlebar, working your way towards the stem. Overlap the tape evenly as you wrap.
    • Secure at Levers: Carefully wrap the tape around the brake and shifter lever bodies. You may need to cut the tape or use special cutouts to get a clean finish.
    • Finish: Secure the end of the tape with electrical tape or the provided finishing tape.

Step 11: Reinstall Brake and Shifter Levers

  • Positioning: Slide the brake and shifter levers back onto the new handlebars. Position them where they are comfortable for you to reach and operate. Consider your riding style and hand size.
  • Tighten Clamps: Tighten the clamp bolts on the levers. Again, use a torque wrench if possible, but hand-tight with a hex key is generally sufficient for initial positioning. You’ll fine-tune the position later.

Step 12: Mount the New Handlebars onto the Stem

  • Faceplate Alignment:
    • Threadless Stems: Place the new handlebars into the stem’s cradle. Ensure the handlebars are centered. Many handlebars have alignment marks to help with this.
    • Quill Stems: Slide the handlebars into the clamp area of the quill stem. Ensure they are centered.
  • Faceplate Installation (Threadless Stems):
    • Install Faceplate: Place the stem’s faceplate back onto the handlebars and stem.
    • Insert Bolts: Screw in the faceplate bolts.
    • Tighten in Pattern: Tighten the bolts gradually and evenly in a cross pattern. This is crucial for even pressure and to prevent damage.
    • Torque Specification: Consult your stem and handlebar manufacturer’s recommendations for the correct torque. Use a torque wrench for precise tightening. Overtightening can damage the handlebars or stem.

Step 13: Reconnect Cables and Housing

  • Cable Routing: Carefully route the brake and shifter cables and housing. Ensure they are not kinked or stretched at extreme angles.
  • Connect to Components: Reconnect the brake cables to the calipers/brake arms and shifter cables to the derailleurs.
  • Cable Tension: Adjust the cable tension for proper braking and shifting. This might involve using barrel adjusters on the levers or derailleurs.

Step 14: Final Adjustments and Tightening

  • Handlebar Position: Sit on your bike and adjust the angle of the handlebars to your preferred position.
  • Lever Position: Adjust the angle of your brake and shifter levers for comfortable reach and operation.
  • Final Torque Check: Once you are happy with the position, re-check the torque on all stem and handlebar clamp bolts.

Step 15: Reinstall Accessories

  • Mount any lights, bike computers, bells, or other accessories you removed earlier.

Important Considerations for Your Bicycle Handlebar Swap

Several factors can influence the success of your handlebar installation.

Handlebar Clamp Diameter

  • Standard Sizes: The most common handlebar clamp diameter is 31.8mm. Older bikes might use 25.4mm or even 26.0mm. Your stem must be compatible with your new handlebars. If they don’t match, you’ll need a bicycle stem replacement as well.
  • Check Compatibility: Always verify the clamp diameter of your new handlebars and ensure it matches your stem.

Stem Compatibility

  • Steerer Tube Diameter: Your stem also needs to match your fork’s steerer tube diameter (e.g., 1 1/8 inch is very common).
  • Quill vs. Threadless: Ensure you have the correct type of stem for your bike’s headset system (quill for older bikes, threadless for modern bikes). If you’re changing from one system to the other, it involves more than just handlebars.

Torque Wrench Use

  • Why Use One? Carbon fiber handlebars and stems are particularly sensitive to over-tightening. A torque wrench ensures you apply the correct pressure, preventing cracks or damage. Metal handlebars and stems can also be damaged if bolts are overtightened.
  • Common Torque Values:
    • Stem Faceplate: Often 4-6 Nm (Newton-meters).
    • Stem Steerer Clamp: Often 5-7 Nm.
    • Brake/Shifter Lever Clamps: Often 4-6 Nm.
  • Always Consult Manuals: These are general guidelines. Always refer to the specific manufacturer’s torque specifications for your components.

Types of Cycling Handlebars

Choosing the right handlebars is crucial for comfort and performance.

  • Flat Handlebars: Common on mountain bikes and hybrids. Offer a more upright riding position and good control.
  • Riser Handlebars: A type of flat bar with an upward sweep, offering a more relaxed and upright posture.
  • Drop Handlebars: Found on road bikes. Offer multiple hand positions for comfort and aerodynamics. Available in various shapes and drops.
  • Cruiser Handlebars: Wide, swept-back bars for comfortable, upright riding on cruiser bikes.
  • Bullhorn Handlebars: Aerodynamic handlebars often seen on track or single-speed bikes.
  • Ape Hanger Handlebars: Tall, swept-back handlebars often associated with choppers or some custom builds.

Brake and Shifter Lever Compatibility

  • Cable Pull: Ensure your new brake levers are compatible with your braking system (e.g., V-brake, caliper, hydraulic disc). Different levers have different cable pull ratios.
  • Shifter Integration: For road bikes, your brake levers usually contain the shifters. Make sure your new levers are compatible with your drivetrain (number of speeds, brand like Shimano, SRAM, Campagnolo).

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Even with careful work, you might encounter minor problems.

Handlebars Won’t Slide In/Out

  • Cause: Grease buildup or slight corrosion.
  • Solution: Apply a little more grease or a gentle wiggle. For removal, a soft mallet tap might help. For installation, ensure no paint or debris is obstructing the fit.

Stripped Bolt Heads

  • Cause: Using the wrong size hex key or applying too much force.
  • Solution: If slightly stripped, try a hex key that fits snugly. For badly stripped heads, you might need a bolt extractor tool. Always use the correct size hex key for future work.

Cables Not Working Smoothly

  • Cause: Kinked housing, improper cable routing, or incorrect tension.
  • Solution: Reroute the cables to ensure smooth bends. Check and adjust cable tension. You might need new cables and housing if they are worn or damaged.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q1: How tight should handlebar clamp bolts be?

Handlebar clamp bolts should be tightened to the manufacturer’s specified torque. For most stems and handlebars, this is typically between 4 Nm and 6 Nm for the faceplate. Over-tightening can damage carbon components, and under-tightening can lead to dangerous handlebar slippage. Always use a torque wrench.

Q2: Can I use my old brake levers with new handlebars?

Yes, often you can, provided the clamp diameter of the new handlebars matches the clamp diameter of your old levers. However, for road bike drop bars, the brake levers are integrated with shifters. You’ll need to ensure the new levers are compatible with your bike’s drivetrain (number of speeds and brand).

Q3: How do I know if I need a new stem?

You might need a new stem if:
* The clamp diameter of your new handlebars doesn’t match your current stem.
* You want to change your riding position significantly (e.g., shorter or longer reach, higher or lower rise).
* Your current stem is damaged or incompatible with your fork’s steerer tube.

Q4: What if my new handlebars are a different diameter than my old ones?

If your new handlebars have a different clamp diameter than your old ones, you will need to replace your stem to match. For example, if you’re upgrading from 25.4mm handlebars to 31.8mm handlebars, you’ll need a 31.8mm clamp diameter stem.

Q5: How often should I check my handlebar tightness?

It’s good practice to check the tightness of your stem and handlebar clamp bolts periodically, especially after the first few rides on new handlebars or after significant impacts. A quick visual inspection and a gentle wiggle can alert you to any looseness.

Conclusion

Replacing bike handlebars is a manageable DIY project that can greatly improve your cycling experience. By following these steps carefully, using the correct tools, and paying attention to detail, you can successfully complete a bicycle handlebar swap and enjoy the benefits of your new setup. Remember to always prioritize safety by ensuring all components are securely fastened and properly adjusted. Happy cycling!